DIY TV Stand


Hello everyone & welcome to the first post here on Craftsman Drive. My lovely wife has inspired me to start my own blog about my experience through our DIY journey. So, thank you for stopping by, and please forgive me but some of the blog is still under construction, I wanted to kick off my first official post at the beginning of the New Year.  For my first post it has finally come to you by demand, the instructions for the DIY TV Stand as seen on Liz Marie Blog. As of recent, I have dawned the nickname Mr. LMB, and you can usually see pieces of my arms, hands, and the occasional back of the head photobomb in some of the pictures at Well, ringing in the New Year, I have decided to turn around, facing the camera, offering How-To’s of the amazing creations my better half has “influenced” me to build, starting with the highly demanded guide to the DIY TV Stand, and here it is!

I took these photo’s off of, they are a little old, due to the fact we built it a little over a year ago. The TV Stand is the same however, its surroundings have changed a few times over. Thank you for patiently waiting for these instructions and I hope they help you create one of your own.


All the dimensions obviously can be altered to fit any area of your house. To get the starting dimensions, I took our previous TV stand, that was significantly smaller in width and length, but the height is relatively the same.

At the end of everything, the overall cost of this TV stand is just under $100.00. That includes all new hardware and wood, I did not use any left over materials from a previous build.

Okay, let’s break it down.

You cannot make anything without the idea’s and a few measurements, so let’s plot and layout.

Measure out your space, and determine your dimensions that would fit best for you, my overall size of the TV stand is as follows:

Screen Shot 2013-12-31 at 5.49.59 PM

Step 1: Base comes first, starting with the legs.

I took the legs and connected the front leg to the back leg on each side. This makes an upside down “U” shape with each leg and the connecting piece. Repeat this for the other side.

Step 2: Connect left side to right side.

You should have two upside down “U” shape base frames made from the legs. Next, connecting the two “U” shape legs, left side to the right side, utilizing the 2x2s (length with be determined on overall width of console). Starting with the top, connect the front side of the left side of the legs to the right. Repeat the same step for the back, this is going to be the support of your top boards.

Step 3: Determine shelving heights.

The shelves are going to aid in structural support, and also provide storage and aesthetic appeal. Determining the height of your shelves is completely your preference, I choose the height to be 1 foot, because it was easy and looked nice.

After determining the height of the shelves, repeat steps similar to the ones used in Step 2, by connecting a support 2×2 from the left side to the right side, however this will be used for the shelves. I connected the shelves utilizing two pocket holes with the KregJig Master System. I choose to do it this way to hide the screws and provide a clean look without any exposed hardware. You could also use a stylish bracket in each location that will support the weight. I elected to place a support 2×4 in the middle on the backside, to help the overall support and prevent drooping of the top boards. I elected to place a support 2×4 in the middle on the backside, to help the overall support and prevent drooping of the top boards. I elected to place a support 2×4 in the middle on the backside, to help the overall support and prevent drooping of the top boards. This step will complete the construction of the base or frame for the piece.

Screen Shot 2013-12-31 at 11.51.07 PM

Step 4: Laying in the shelves.

With the framework set up, you can now lay in the shelves starting with the bottom shelf first. I used two 2x8s side by side, starting with either front or back, it does not matter. Lay the shelf in, using another person to hold the board in place. Ensuring the shelf is flush with the side support 2×2 and attach the shelf from the front/backs side utilizing at least 3 screws for each shelf board.

Note* I used a countersink drill bit, to provide a pilot hole, usually helps prevent splitting of wood. The countersink also provides a divot in the wood to allow the screw to go further in the wood passed flush. This will allow you to come back later with a paintable wood filler to conceal the screws.imgres

Once attached go to the other side and repeat. Do the same step for the middle shelf. This completes this step, next we will lay the top of the piece.

Step 5: Laying the top.



Laying the top is simple. First determine how many board(s) you want on top, and the amount of overhang from the top to the base. We chose to have no overhang on the backside to allow for a flush look against the walk, and we chose an overhang of  1  1/2 inches on the sides and  2  1/2 inches on the front.

Lay the boards down starting with the back since it is flush and that is the easiest, just simply ensure it is flush with the back support 2×2 and attach with a few screws from the bottom. Next, lay in place the middle board and front board, measuring each corner of overhang to ensure that the boards are square onto the base. You can choose to attach from the top with a counter-sink and fill later, or attach from the bottom. I chose to attach from the bottom, so I did not have to worry about filling it in later from the top. This completes the construction of the piece.

Step 6: Sand, Stain/paint, and let Set.

Now that everything is complete, it is time to fit the piece into your space.

Fill all the countersink holes, once dry run a palm sander across all of the boards to provide a smooth surface and allow the stain to take easier. Also, I usually sand all edges and corners to make the piece look a little more professional and slightly safer, removing sharp or pointy spots. Clean off all of the dust from the sand, and go ahead and stain or paint your piece, let it dry and move it in.

*The stain we used was Special Walnut by Minwax.

Well that’s it! I hope you like our DIY TV Stand. Have you ever made anything like this? If you end up using this plan, please let me know how it goes and send me a picture, I would interested to see how your build turns out. Leave me a comment below, find me on facebook, chat with me one instagram, and again thank you for visiting.



  1. Congratulations on the dawn of your brand new blog! I just started mine three months ago and know how excited I was to receive my first comments. Someone actually read my blog.

    I think one of the things I will like about your blog is the ability to keep some specifics on creating you and your lovely wife’s beautiful projects and then show them to a handyman to recreate. I’m certain you will have a large following in no time.
    Congrats and Happy New Year,

    • says:

      Hey Dana,

      Thank you very much for my first EVER comment! Yeah that is what I hope to do. Since my wife has started her blog, she has been getting request on guides and how-to’s of our projects. I hope I can give a decent blueprint that any DIYer can attempt or like you said take to a handyman, so it can be recreated. Thank you again, and I hope you enjoy my blog.

    • Meagan says:

      this is a beautiful set. i plan on building 2 of these, i larger for the TV and one smaller for a sofa couch.

  2. Melissa Giglio says:

    John and I LOVE LOVE LOVE your TV console…so much so that we bought old barn wood to make it for our living room! We haven’t started yet, but we are excited to! The KregJig Master System looks like a must have! Thank you for sharing your talents and secrets Jose! Craftsman Drive is going to be super successful! I just know it! 🙂

    • says:

      Thanks guys, I am excited too. Yeah, I know you guys have been wanting to build it for awhile so I hope the blog post helps you guys out. The Kregjig is a big help for pocket holes, but not needed if you don’t want to attach the pieces that way, you can substitute a variety of different ways. When we come and visit I can bring it, if you guys want me to, good luck on your build.

  3. Linda Coleman says:

    So excited to try to build this! Thanks for the step by step.

    • says:

      Thanks Linda, I hope you enjoy building the TV stand as much as I did. Please send pictures of the final product.

  4. Congrats on your new blog, I think this is so awesome and your wife is very lucky to have such a supporting and talented husband! I think that more men should step up and create their own blogs sharing their talents. I’m looking forward to seeing more from you, I’m already a regular reading of Liz Marie blog and I love it so I’m sure I’ll love yours as well! :o)


    • says:

      Thank you Tania for the support. I was hesitant for so long to actually launch this blog, I have absolutely zero professional experience in carpentry or any other area associated with DIY; but with a good search engine, some luck, and trial and error, anything can be built. I hope I can get some guy followers to help me out with ideas or different techniques, that would be awesome. Thank again for the support.

  5. Ralinn says:

    I’ve been following Liz for one year. I didn’t even know what a blog was before that. :@) I’m very excited to now be following you. You are going to rock people’s world.

    • says:

      Ha, Thanks Ralinn! I hope my blog does that well. I didn’t really know what a blog was prior to lizmarieblog either. Now, blogging has become a big part of our lives. I am so very thankful to have you as a follower and I hope I can live to your expectations.

  6. Congratulations on your new blog Jose! I’ve followed and loved Liz Marie for awhile now and it will be fun to get to know the other half. Huge blessings to you on your new venture!

    • says:

      Thank you Patricia for the much needed blessings, this is all very new to me. Thankfully I have a great mentor to make this entrance a little more easier.

  7. Hello! Congrats on the new blog, that’s exciting! I follow you wife and enjoy her blog very much, so I thought I’d become a follower of yours as well since like she said, you’re an integral part in all of the projects as well! I’d like my hubby to build one of those stands some day and I am now thankful for a good resource. So, thanks! Keep up the great work!

    • says:

      Thank you very much Shannon. I hope you and your hubby build a custom TV Stand for yourselves, if so don’t forget to share a few pictures of the final product.

  8. Stacie says:

    Congrats on your new blog! I recently started following your wife’s blog and fell in love with your TV stand! I am so excited to try my hand at building my own. The finish on yours is gorgeous…what type/color stain did you use? Thanks! 🙂

    • says:

      Hey Stacie, thank you for the support! Good luck on the build and please share photo’s during and after. To answer your question, we used Special Walnut by Minwax. Also, if your attempting a rustic vintage look, a cool tip is to stain it, but do not seal it right away. This allows the piece to get beat up a little bit naturally on the wood directly, once you are happy with the look, then seal it.

  9. Congratulations on your new blog! I just signed up as a follower, and I will look forward to reading your posts. I really enjoy the projects you and LMB have done in the past and will look forward to some new ones!
    Carmen Skyles

    • says:

      Thank you Carmen, I hope you continue to enjoy reading, both of our blogs for years to come.

  10. Love the tutorial!! We are building enough of these to go along a wall in our family room. What type of wood did you use? Thank you!!!!

    • says:

      Hey Christine, That is going to look awesome, I hope I get to see some pictures when your done. We have two pieces, one as a TV Stand and another as a buffet, and the thing I love about this build is, if you change up the dimensions a little or paint/stain the unit differently, it can be used for almost anything, anywhere. I would like to build another one to put in the garage, something to attach tools to and work off of. To answer your question, the wood we used for the TV Stand was Southern Yellow Pine for the Top and Shelves, and regular SPF (spruce, pine, and fir) for everything else. It was the most inexpensive way to go, without losing out on quality, and it took the stain very well. Thanks for the question, please let me know if you have anymore.

  11. Kim Dykman says:

    WOW ! I am so proud of you Jose…its not easy to put yourself out there and let others comment! You have been so supportive of Liz and her endeavors so now its your turn to get some “props” for all the hard work and patience you have shown over the years. I WISH I could just borrow you for a week or so…my hubby is not one to let me oversee his projects. I would do more myself if I could but there is always something that needs to be moved, fixed, built or whatever. We removed the wallpaper in our kitchen almost 2 years ago and I am still waiting for Dan to finish drywalling and “fixing” things so I ( or we) can paint!!!! If its not done by April I will be paying someone to do it. Money is something that always motivates a cheap DIY guy! I shouldn’t really blame him completely because he is very generous with his time and talent…at other people’s houses! Anyway, I am excited for you and look forward to all you have planned to share. Love the TV stand too!

    • says:

      Thanks for the support, she is a harder worker, so I hope I can keep up with her. When it comes to painting I feel his pain, I am willing to do anything else besides painting, it is my absolute least favorite thing to do in the house.

  12. Appreciate this post. Will try it out.

  13. J. Rios says:

    This a great project and I can’t wait for what’s to come.

  14. Wonderful article! We are linking to this great post on our
    website. Keep up the great writing.

  15. Hi there, You’ve done an incredible job.
    I will definitely digg it and personally suggest
    to my friends. I’m sure they will be benefited frm this web site.

  16. Marlaina says:

    My husband and I built this over the weekend! It looks amazing! Thank you for sharing. We modified it to our living room. I have stained it with Special Walnut,but may go over it with something else to give it the gray weathered look. Thanks again!

    • says:

      Awesome, please feel free to share pictures of your piece. I would really like to see it.

  17. Excellent write-up. I definitely appreciate this site.

    Keep it up!

  18. Pat Danner says:

    How do you attach the 2 by 4 to the 2 by 2?


    • says:

      Hey Pay,
      I used pocket holes with my kregjig. Underneath the 2by2 there is a wood screw at a slight upward angle, going all the way through to the 2by4. I needed the Kregjig Master for other projects and that kit can be a little expensive, but they have other Kregjig kits of the essentials. If you do not want to pay for something like that, a 90 degree angle bracket would also be an option. Thanks for the question.

  19. bookmarked!!, I love your site!

  20. Very easy to read instructions! Gotta love that most of all 🙂 Mr. B loves his Kreg jig! I’ll be sending over to give you some guy support 🙂

    • says:

      Thanks, I can always use some guy support.

  21. Chris says:

    Congratulations on the launch of your blog!
    We were gifted a tv for Christmas & have been looking for a new stand.
    I can’t wait to show this to my husband, it is perfect!
    I’m positive your blog will inspire me … and provide projects for my husband!
    Loved your first, can’t wait to see what’s to come!

    • says:

      Thank you very much. I hope I can inspire a few project for you guys to tackle. Please share your TV Stand if you end up building it, I would love to see pictures.

  22. Justeen says:

    Hey, I am in love with this project. I am actually going to attempt to make it myself. I had one question about your support 2×4 in the back though. Did you just place it behind the 2×2’s in the back, or did you make cut outs to fit it flush with the backing? Thanks so much!

    • says:

      Hey Justeen, You can do either. I choose to cut the back 2×2 in half and make the back flush because we do not have overhang in the back. If you had hangover in the back, it would be much easier to set the support behind the 2×2 railing. Great question thank you.

  23. Mike says:

    Can you tell me what kind of wood you used to make this TV stand? Thanks!

    • says:

      Hey Mike, I was looking for the most inexpensive route. I went with Yellow Pine on the top, and SPF for everything else. This was perfect for a rustic look, but you could get a little more expensive with it. My buddy is actually getting ready to build one from old barn wood.

  24. Patty Brenner says:

    I *SO* need to make something like this for my tv and associated living room electronics. Thanks for the details – I do have a few questions: how did you do the ‘X’ design on the sides? Did I miss that in the tutorial? Are they made from 2×2’s – and it appears that one is in full (did you lay one in place and mark the angle) and the ‘cross’ of the X is in two pieces? Sorry if I’m blind on this, I’m having a hard time figuring it out, but I love that look.

    Congrats on the new blog, I’m looking forward to good stuff from you 🙂


    • says:

      Patty, thanks for the support. No you did not miss anything I did not include it, I built two pieces and the second piece doesn’t have them. I was going to post about it in the future, but here is the run down. For the most part you have the beat on it, it is 2×2’s and yes, one is a full piece and the other side are two separate pieces cut to fit. As for the build, I spent about 15 minutes trying to prove to myself I know my math, and eventually gave up and grabbed a few scrap pieces of 2×2. All I did was take a angle gauge, got a good idea of the angle of cut for the piece, went to the miter saw and cut it. Brought the piece back and ensure it fit. The first one was off just a little, so I made adjustments to my miter saw and cut a new scrap piece, second time it fit. I then got my solid pieces cut them and fit them in, clamped in with glue and a little staple from below. The angle touching the actual TV stand is the same, so don’t adjust the miter saw to fast, cut those two separate pieces. You should have one cut left for each piece of the separate sides of the cross. The last cut should be at the side of the 2×2 that will be touching the full sized 2×2 or the middle of the cross. All I did for this is put it in its place, the overlap of little piece and long solid piece produces the angle, mark out the angle of the with a pencil. I took that piece over to the miter saw and adjusted the miter saw to the drawn line and cut away. If for any reason your angles are off slightly, you still may be okay. Simply sand down the problem side of the miss-cut, and allow some glue and wood filler to save the day. Please let me know if this answers your question, if not feel free to email me at

  25. Jenn says:

    Really wanting to replicate such a beautiful entertainment as the one you have but I was just wondering if it is sturdy enough to hold a 60 inch television which is about 100 pounds??? Eager to know so my husband and I can get started ASAP!!!

    • says:

      Hey Jenn, Absolutely! Ours is an older 47 inch TV and it is fairly heavy. I Have also stood on ours with the TV on it, and I weigh a flattering 165 lbs, and it did not wobble or even creak. It is very important to ensure ever aspect of the build is square, that will obviously help to the structure and strength of the piece.

  26. Great step-by-step tutorial! I’m lucky enough to have a husband who also helps with the construction parts of many of my DIY projects. He almost never rolls his eyes at me now when I start on a new project! Best of luck with your blog! I’ll be following along.

    • says:

      Thanks, I am glad you liked the post. Yeah a helpful husband is a convenient resource, and I certainly know how he feels every time a new project comes up, but once you get it going its not so bad.

  27. Kim says:

    I love this console table so much. You mentioned the type of stain you used but what did you use to seal it? How many coats of stain? I just love the finish you achieved.

    • says:

      Hey Kim,
      I wanted my piece to build some rustic character naturally. So We left it unsealed for the time being. It has picked up some awesome gouges, scratches, and dings. When we do decide we want to seal it, we will probably use either Annie Sloan wax or polyurethane.

  28. Kelly Schulte says:

    Hello, I saw that your top boards are 6.2 ft. What are the measurements for the shelf boards? Thanks for the blog! I’m going to try making this soon.

    Kelly Schulte

    • says:

      The measurements for the shelves are 69 inches. The base is 6ft and each side of the shelf is inlaid by 1 1/2 inches.

  29. Kelly Schulte says:

    Also, what are your measurements for the 2×4’s that go between each front and back legs? The bottom of the ‘U’. Do you think I’ll need angle brackets to support the shelves on the legs or will screws suffice?


    • says:

      The bottom of my “U” is 14 1/4″. If you are not going to use pocket holes, I would recommend angle brackets. Depending on the size and brand, a package of two brackets with hardware typically runs about $2.00-$3.00. They are much easier to use, install on the legs (or “U”) ensuring precise measurement, rest the support beam, and everything should fall into place from there. Hope this helps and good luck.

  30. Nikki says:

    This piece is beautiful! Thanks for posting the directions! I showed this to my husband since he will hopefully be the one building it. His only question was how your supporting the center of the bottom shelves? Since they are actually two separate pieces of wood he’s afraid they will sag once weight is applied. He didn’t see it discussed in the directions and couldn’t tell from the pictures how your supporting the center. If you could explain what you did I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

    • says:

      I used 1×2 evenly placed underneath, and a 2×4 that runs down the back in the center. I built a larger buffet without anything in the middle and it has a lot more weight on it… Still no sag. If you use pocket holes it should be fine. Good luck and thanks for the comment.

  31. Jenna says:

    The amount of wood you need is a little confusing to me. We are going to make it 12″ deep so for top we would need 2 – 2×6 and under top you would need 2x2s.

    the shelves – we will use one 2×6 and 2 2x2s? Now how can you determine the length of everything? are the 2 shelves the same length? Please help – would love to build this, but a little confusing….

    • says:

      Hey Jenna, let figure this out. First check you wood, because the advertised dimensions are before the supplier cuts them. For instance my, 2 x 8 is actually 1 1/2 x 7 1/4. The easiest way to tackle this without having to plane or perform long cuts on a table saw, is let the wood determine the size, in this build the depth, obviously you will have to cut width of the unit. You 2×6 is probably 1 1/2 x 5 1/2, so you pieces depth is going to be 11, so don’t get caught up on writing down your ideas.

      My piece, the two shelves are the same, and they come to the midpoint of the 2×4 legs (on the inside). I have built another piece, and the shelf boards come to 1 5/8 point on the 2×4, because I have 2×2 that it butts-up against and is flush against the outside 2×4 leg. To answer you question, no, the shelves are a little shorter than the top boards, because of overhang. To figure out how much wood you will need, start with the middle shelf(because the bottom is the same), this will dictate you base, and your top will be whatever the board dimensions side by side are. To get more into it, measure the total length and width of the shelves, and how you want them to be place on the support 2×4 legs(indented to the halfway point, or butt-up against a flush 2×2). Next, take the total width and length of the 2- 2x6s at your desired length. The difference in the measurements is going to determine how much overhang you will need from the top boards to the base. *Note, a little extra wood won’t hurt, everyone makes a bad cut or wrong measurement. I hope this helps, if it doesn’t let me know, and I can try a better way to describe it. Good Luck!

  32. Vernon says:

    Looks amazing, looking to build one this weekend, just curious how to conected and supported the shelf boards together…(the 2 2X8’s) i see that the attach to the 2X2 suports on the front and back but how are they suported in the center? Thanks

    • says:

      I have built two of these pieces now. The featured TV stand has a 2×4 running down the back, that cuts the center load in half, and mitigates drooping. My other pieces, which is much larger that we use as a buffet, does not have any support in the center. It is currently carrying a decent amount of weight, and still everything is level. The 2x2s are cut very precise, and I needed to tap them in with a soft hammer in order to get them in place. If the shelves attempted to droop, the tight fit of the support 2x2s fight against that, because they have no room to bow. I attached the support 2x2s to the legs with pocket holes, and I attached the 2×2 to the shelf boards by drilling in the front of the 2×2 with a countersink, and followed that with wood filler to hide the holes. Thank, I hope this answers your questions, and good luck. Please share your creation when you are finished.

    • says:

      Thanks Krissie, yours turned out great.

  33. Yvonny says:

    I told my hubby to make this for me. He wants to know if we can purchase one from you because he doesn’t have the right tools. Is that possible?? lol

    • says:

      I never really considered it. I don’t know how shipping would go, haha. Father’s day is around the corner… Maybe some tools are in his future.

  34. Stefanie says:

    Hi…Congratulations on your blog…you and your wife are so talented and I love following your projects! I just finished making this TV Stand and I absolutely love it…was wondering if you used a pre-stain conditioner before you stained??? I am looking to get the most “rustic” look possible??? Thanks!!! 🙂

    • says:

      Hey Setfanie,

      First of, thanks for reading. No we didn’t use a pre-stain, and I cannot say I have ever used that. I am intrigued, I will try it on one our next pieces. We typically beat up the piece a little and stain away. Good Luck on your build.

      • Stefanie says:

        Thanks so much for your quick response! Thought I would let you know that I used a scrap piece of wood to test the stain both with and without the pre-stain conditioner…For the look I am going for (rustic), I like the section without the conditioner. The color was less uniform which makes it look a little more “weathered” and that is what I am wanting it to look like. Now that I know what to do I will tackle staining the stand tomorrow! Thanks again! 🙂

        • says:

          Sounds like an interesting product. I will be on the look out. Again, good luck to you, please let me know if you have anymore questions.

  35. Brianne says:

    Hi! Thank you for posting this How-To! I’ve wanted to learn how to work with wood for awhile now! This is going to be my first project. I’m very excited to get started! I want to add the cross pieces and I read your instructions in a previous comment. But, I’m still confused on what the lengths of the shelves {top and middle/bottom} should be. The support 2x2s are 69 inches, is that correct? I’m not ready to branch out and use new measurements so I’m going to try to do everything as precise as yours. I apologize if this is confusing!

    • says:

      Hey Brianne,

      Sorry for the late response, we have been busy selling our house. To answer your question, the support 2×2 located in the front and back of each shelf measures at 65inches. As for the height of the shelves, the top shelf measures 12 inches from the top of the very top 2×2 (the 2×2 supporting the table top) to the top the bottom of the shelf. The same measurements will be for the bottom shelf, however you will be measuring from the top of the 2×2 from the upper shelf to the bottom of the bottom shelf. I hope this helps… good luck.

      • Brianne says:

        After re-reading my question, I don’t believe I phrased it well, sorry! What I meant was how long are the boards that create each level of shelving? If I want to add the cross-pieces, the board lengths for middle/bottom will be shorter than if I don’t, correct?

        • says:

          Hey again Brianne,

          Okay, we will eventually get to the right answer. The boards that create each level of shelving are 69 inches. You were right in your first comment. The shelves will come to about the halfway point of the leg (2×4). This will leave enough clearance for you to attach the cross bars flush against the sides. If you were not to put the cross bars, the shelves would be the same length as the total width from outside side of leg to outside side of leg (6ft). I hope this answers your question. If not, we will get there.Thanks.

  36. Melanie says:

    hi question! is it necessary to use a polyurethane after you stain? Did you? I like the look of yours and don’t want mine to shiny, But also want it to be durable? Thanks

  37. I’m so happy to see someone willing to share ideas and plans for free, thank you!

  38. Erin says:

    Hi! Do you have a buy list/cut list/tool list somewhere that I am not seeing?

    • says:

      I did not publish a buy list or cut list because this piece is custom for each build. I provided a link below to my DIY Buffet table that is nearly the same build but much larger.

  39. I love your tv stand! My boyfriend and I just built a factory cart coffee table and your beautiful tv stand is inspiring us to continue building! I was reading through your instructions and wanted to see if you by any chance had a list of all the supplies and cut list you used . I have a feeling I will get the wrong cuts or not enough wood! Thank you so much for your help!

  40. Haley says:


    What type of wood did you use? It looks great and I was wondering if you used oak or pine or something else?

    • says:

      I used pine for it all. Thank you for the comment.

  41. Sarah says:

    My husband and I are going to make this, however going through the instructions (unless we are both missing it) we can’t see where you show how to to make the X or cross boards on the two sides/ends of the unit. We want to make it this week, as we LOVE it. Can you explain that step?

  42. BK says:

    Funny how almost these identical plans have been posted on Ana Whites site since 2012 but you claim them as yours and don’t give any credit where it’s actually due. Nice build but just changing a couple details does not make something yours.

    • says:

      I can understand your concern, but I built this with no previous plans, well before I started my website. In fact, without people asking me how to build it, I would not have even created this website all together. I actually did not stumble on Ana White until a few months ago and I am not someone who claims work as his own, if it is not. If I would have used any previous plans or influence I, with out a doubt, would have mentioned them and gave them credit. All my builds are from scratch, and they are only built for our home, with the intention to give other people ideas and inspiration. Thank you for your comment and I hope you continue to read.

  43. Allie Hatley says:

    My sister in law has this pinned and I would love to make it for her for Christmas. One question though-Im confused about the laying the shelves part of it. What is supporting the shelves? Ill probably just screw everything in (I don’t have that kreg thing).

    • says:

      The there is a 2×2 that is on the front that screws into the shelves. Also the legs have a support screwed into it for the shelves as well. I used a countersink drill bit and covered it up with wood filler so you cannot see it. I hope this helps.

  44. Stacey Basler says:

    Hi! My cousin just built this for me this weekend, and I’m wondering how many coats of the stain did you use for yours? Btw…thank you so much for posting the plans for this!!! I am so excited to have this in my living room!

    • says:

      We only put 2 layers of stain on. Just make sure you stain and let it set for a few minutes and wipe it off with a rag or cloth. Good luck.

  45. Stephanie says:

    love the look of this TV stand. Thanks for sharing. I am trying to put together a material list for this project. Could you tell me what type of wood you used? Also, what size were the screws?


    • says:

      Just regular cheap pine, The screws are 2 inch wood screws. Good Luck

  46. Rusty says:

    Thank you so much for putting this up. It was just what my wife was looking for. However I’m a little confused. After building the top out of (3) 2×6 I built the legs to be 14 1/2 ” apart to accommodate the 2×8 shelves, however this now made the legs with the top brace to wide for the top. Are the shelves supposed to be made out of 2×6 as well?

  47. rachel says:

    Do you have a shopping list of all the wood pieces/sizes needed?

  48. Brigid Brown says:

    Thanks for your instructions how to build the console! I absolutely love it and as I wrote to your wife today before finding your instructions, it is just what I have been looking for!!
    I will send you a pic once it is complete – hopefully very soon!!!

    Thanks again for inspiring me!


  49. Thank you so much for this post. I plan on building one as a console for my lounge… I often read posts of LMB (in my favorites sites), but think I’ll do the same thing for your site. Really, very good job !!

    • says:

      Thank you so much for reading Laura, we will do our best to keep things coming out and exciting for you to read.

  50. Sande says:

    Loved the pics so much so I showed them to a dear man at my church who builds anything!!! So happy!! He also made me a coffee table to math with the leftover wood!! Got rid of a huge all-consuming entertainment center and this is so fabulous!!! thank you!!!!

  51. Andrew says:

    I am in the middle of making this TV stand right now. I am about 75% complete and fixing to try the cross pieces on the ends (2×2’s)

  52. Alison says:

    Thanks so much for the plans! We just finished this project today. Pictures here 🙂

    • says:

      Looks awesome! I really like the color choice, what is it?

  53. Jill says:

    what type of wood did you use? I’d love to try this.

  54. I’m so lame… I’ll ask my very helpful handy friend if she want to help me make this. And ask my hubby if this is what he’d like… Got a ton of old barn wood…..

  55. Meg says:

    I’m in the process of building this right now, thanks for the inspiration! I’m about to sand and was curious what grit of sandpaper you used? Did you use different grits to get the final product? Also, did you sand between coats and if so, what grit? Sorry, I’m a beginner! Thank you!

    • says:


      Typically I do sand, but this piece I did not sand at all. I wanted the natural rough charecteristics of the wood being banged around from the hardware store to my house. Any uneven cracks or surfaces I welcomed. If I were to sand it, I would most likely use somewhere around 150 grit. Thanks for reading.

  56. Meg says:

    HI! I’m in the process of building this and have a quick question. You mentioned in one of your comments above that you used word filler to get the X’s perfect on the sides. What kind did you use? Any tips for using wood filler? Thank you!

    • says:


      Any paintable/stainable wood filler will work. What I did was installed the X’s and where there were gaps I piled a generous amount of wood filler over top those spots. Once cured, I sanded the wood hardened wood filler and the seams became very hard to see. Good luck and thank you for reading.

  57. Keri says:

    I want to build this, but I don’t have a kreg jig. If I just countersink the screws straight into the wood, will it be strong enough?

  58. Eric Pyles says:

    I just wanted to say that this was the perfect TV stand for our small house. I made this as a present to my girlfriend and it turned out amazing. Thanks for posting this project.

    • says:

      Oh, thank you so much Eric. I am glad you took it on and it worked out for you.

  59. Galen says:

    Hey! I love your post. It was a little over my head since I haven’t ever built anything before but I think I might give it a shot with the help of a friend. I also wanted to let you know that your drawings are being used on another blog but they took off your website URL so you don’t get credit. Here is the post:

    • says:

      Thank you so much for the kind words Galen. Yes, unfortunately those TV stands and plans are built at a few sites like that. Thank you for the heads up.

  60. Wow that came out fantastic! Just came across this today and wanted to say that i love it. That Special Walnut stain you used really makes it look perfect. Great Job!


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